We left off in the harbour town of Digby, Nova Scotia, where we celebrated a memorable Canada Day. Our original goal was to then head up the Digby neck to visit Long Island, but we were feeling more excited about ending our day in Yarmouth. So, we changed course, first, with a jog inland to the tiny hamlet of Bear River. This tiny artsy first-nation community is steeped in Mi’kma’ki history and has a lot to offer with its world-class ‘Flight of Fancy’ art gallery, Sissiboo coffee roastery, friendly habitants, and a gently-rolling inky black river that cuts right through the middle and begs the avid paddler to put-in.
We then headed back toward the coast and picked up the Evangeline Trail which led us through the endless charming Acadian burrows that dot the French Shore from Digby to Yarmouth. We stopped several times to take in landmarks like the Gilbert’s Cove Lighthouse - which once housed a family of seven, Weasley style - as well as the behemoth St. Bernard and Église Sainte-Marie Catholic Churches which tower over their tiny towns.
Our last stop before Yarmouth was Maitland Beach Provincial Park. Lined with fragrant rose bushes and boasting a sprawling white sand oceanfront, it was the first time either of us had truly stood and looked out into nothing but Atlantic Ocean. It felt incredible to experience that together, even more so, as we had only just done the exact same thing on the Pacific Ocean just one year ago.
A short drive from Port Maitland, Yarmouth began with a meandering countryside drive and opened into a delightful port-side town. We enjoyed dinner at Rudder’s Brew Pub waterfront patio as the chilly evening fog rolled in and made note of all of the shops and parks to visit the following day…