After our midnight propane drama, we got a few hours of sleep before heading back into town for breakfast and coffee. Feeling a little more positive, we attempted to visit the Perkins House Museum (our purpose for stopping in Liverpool) only to find that it had been closed for three years awaiting government approval for renovations. Zing!
We instead spent a wonderful morning chatting to the neighbouring museum’s host - a delightful woman who shared our love of travel - who invited us to explore freely and told us all about the Perkins House and its treasures in lieu of its closure. Having made yet another friend, we left Liverpool in good spirits and headed to Lunenburg with a stop in Bridgewater to replace our regulator.
LU-NEN-BURG! What a place! Driving in, you’re absolutely gob-smacked by the houses only to suddenly realize the harbour full of tall ships and sailboats peaking at you from down the narrow, sloping streets. How could you expect any less from the home of the Fisheries Museum of the Atlantic and the famous Bluenose II?
We have a habit of saving the best for last, so we held off visiting the Bluenose and started at the top of the hill, walking the winding path through the rows of shops. Halfway down toward the wharf, the sky went grey, and we found ourselves huddled under an awning in the rain. Peering out longingly through the trees at the Bluenose, we resolved that he rain wasn’t going to let up, so we ran back to Nanook and decided we would visit the wharf the following day.
Our propane situation still on the fritz, dinner was a local favourite - Nellie’s Takeout** - where we watched the squiggly world go by through our front window and called Ryan’s mom to wish her a very special Happy 60th Birthday. Long after we had said goodbye, the familiar sound of her voice floated around the cabin and echoed in our minds making us feel light and heavy all at once.
The following day, we woke up to good weather at a great spot looking out over the harbour and set out to continue our quest to explore Lunenburg. We wove our way down to the wharf excited to see The Bluenose II at last …only to find that it was missing! We scratched our heads for a few minutes until we spotted her sails way off in the distance. It turns out, she sails twice a day with tourists around the harbour and we had only just missed her.
We filled the time until her return with coffee and book-browsing and were rewarded with a free walk-aboard tour of the coolest ship we’ve ever seen. Impossibly tall douglas fir masts, massive dacron sails, and some amazing wood detail made it a must-see. It was hard to imagine that something that big could slice through water at sixteen knots.
Happy as a Digby scallop, we hit the road once more with visions of sailboats dancing in our heads…
**Fun Fact: There's a huge piece of the Berlin Wall randomly standing at the entrance to the parking lot where Nellie's Takeout food truck is parked. It's legit. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯