After our midnight propane drama, we got a few hours of sleep before heading back into town for breakfast and coffee. Caffeinated and feeling a little more positive, we attempted to visit the Perkins House Museum (our purpose for stopping in Liverpool) only to find that it had been closed for three years awaiting government approval for renovations. Zing!
We instead spent a wonderful morning chatting to the neighbouring museum’s host - a delightful woman who shared our love of travel - who invited us to explore the museum freely and told us all about the Perkins House and its treasures in lieu of its closure. Having made yet another friend, we left Liverpool in good spirits and headed to Lunenburg via Bridgewater to replace our regulator.
LU-NEN-BURG! What a place! Driving in, you’re absolutely gob-smacked by the houses only to suddenly realize the harbour full of tall ships and sailboats peaking at you from down the narrow streets that slope dramatically to the wharf. How could you expect any less from the home of the Fisheries Museum of the Atlantic and the famous Bluenose II?
We have a habit of saving the best for last, so we started at the top of the hill and walked the winding path through the rows of shops. Halfway down to the wharf, the sky went grey, and we found ourselves huddled under an awning in the rain, peering out longingly at the Bluenose II through the trees. The rain wasn’t going to let up so we ran back to Nanook and resolved to visit the wharf the following day.
Our propane situation still on the fritz, dinner was a local favourite - Nellie’s Takeout** - where we watched the squiggly world go by through our front window and called Ryan’s mom to wish her a very special Happy 60th Birthday. Long after we had said goodbye, the familiar sound of her voice floated around the cabin and echoed in our minds making us feel light and heavy all at once.
The following day, we woke up at a great spot looking out over the harbour and resolved to continue our quest of exploring Lunenburg. We wove our way down to the wharf only to find that The Bluenose II was missing! We scratched our heads for a few minutes until we saw her sails way off in the distance. It turns out, she sails twice a day with tourists around the harbour and we had just missed her.
We filled the time with coffee and book browsing and were rewarded with a free walk-aboard tour of the coolest ship I’ve ever seen. Impossibly tall douglas fir masts, massive dacron sails, and some amazing wood detail made the Bluenose II a must-see. It was hard to imagine that something that big could slice through water at sixteen knots.
Happy as a Digby scallop, we hit the road with visions of sailboats dancing in our heads…
**Fun Fact: There's a huge piece of the Berlin Wall randomly standing at the entrance to the parking lot where Nellie's Takeout food truck is parked. It's legit. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯