Rounding The Cape

Every time we come along to a larger city, we take the opportunity to do a few chores. Living in 66 square feet is pretty simple, however, things do get dirty and the fridge periodically runs empty. So, we spent two days in sunny Yarmouth getting Nanook a little back to normal. 

Highlights included: 

  • Dinner at Rudder’s Brew Pub where we got our first taste of Yarmouth’s intense evening fog.

  • K D Laundry on Pleasant Street - ironically the most pleasant laundromat we have ever stepped foot in!

  • The cheapest breakfast with the meatiest bacon, tastiest coffee, and the friendliest service at Shanty Café

AND, lest we forget…

  • A magical, wide open, three-dollar shower at the local YMCA

Clean as a whistle and provisioned for the next leg of our journey, we headed along the coast stopping to look around in West Pubnico’s historic Acadian village, Shag Harbour’s UFO crash site (NOT my choice lol), Cape Sable Island’s white sand beach, and Birchtown’s historic black loyalist settlement. After a quick spaghetti supper in St. Peter’s churchyard and a chat with a local fella, we left Birchtown to finish our day in Shelburne.

Shelburne seemed an unassuming port town as we drove in along Water Street. The houses were older than we had seen… like 1700s old… and then we noticed that all the street signs were curiously adorned with moose heads. As we rounded onto Dock Street, however, it became immediately obvious that this was not just another port town. The narrow waterfront lane was lined with some of the oldest buildings we had ever seen. It so happens, that when the British Loyalists left the Northern United States, they moved to Shelburne and built the biggest European settlement in North America! This port was once a very happening place. 

We slept the night in the marina parking lot overlooking the handful of slips with their beautiful sailboats bobbing gently in the current. Morning brought us a wharf-side coffee and a visit to The Dory Shop Museum where a master-builder still commissions the traditional wooden row boats.

After an over-caffeinated morning in Shelburne, we took an afternoon drive to Keji Seaside National Park where a short hike through thick brush brought us to some of the best, unspoiled oceanfront either of us had ever seen. White sandy beaches, big craggy headlands, plump seals basking on rocky isles, and the clearest turquoise water as far as you could see. It was a remarkable coastal wilderness that was well worth its 6+ km entrance on bumpy road.

There is sadly no camping at Keji Seaside, so we opted for an evening drive to the town of Liverpool where we could spend a restful night at the Hank Snow Free RV Park and visit a few historic sights in the morning…