Rounding The Cape

Every time we come along to a larger city, we take the opportunity to do a few chores. Living in 66 square feet is pretty simple, however, things do get dirty and fridges periodically run empty. So, we spent two days in sunny Yarmouth getting Nanook a little back to normal. 

Highlights included: 

  • Dinner at Rudder’s Brew Pub where we got our first taste of Yarmouth’s intense evening fog.
  • K D Laundry on Pleasant Street - ironically the most pleasant laundromat we have ever stepped foot in! 
  • The cheapest breakfast with the meatiest bacon, tastiest coffee, and the friendliest services at Shanty Café 

AND, lest we forget…

  • A magical three-dollar shower at the local YMCA

Clean as a whistle and provisioned for the next leg of our journey, we headed along the coast stopping to look around in West Pubnico’s historic Acadian village, Shag Harbour’s UFO crash site (NOT my choice lol), Cape Sable Island’s white sand beach, and Birchtown’s historic black loyalist settlement. After a quick spaghetti supper in St. Peter’s churchyard and a chat with a local fella, we left Birchtown to finish our day in Shelburne.

Shelburne seemed an unassuming port town as we drove in along Water Street. The houses were older than we had seen… like 1700s old… and then we noticed that all the street signs were adorned with moose heads. As we rounded onto Dock Street, however, it became immediately obvious that this was not just another port town. The narrow waterfront road was lined with some of the oldest buildings we had ever seen. When the British Loyalists left the Northern United States, they moved to Shelburne and built the biggest European settlement in North America! This port was a happening place. 

We spent the night in the marina lot overlooking the water and it’s many beautiful sailboats that bobbed gently on the current. Morning brought us a wharf-side coffee and a visit to The Dory Shop Museum where a master-builder still custom builds Dory Boats. He and Ryan had a fascinating conversation about all that goes into these simple-looking, but not so simply-built, row boats.

After an exciting and caffeinated morning in Shelburne, we took an afternoon drive to Keji Seaside National Park where a short hike through thick brush brought us to some of the best, unspoiled oceanfront either of us had ever seen. White sandy beaches, big rocky headlands, grey and harbour seals basking on rocky outcrops, and the clearest turquoise water as far as you could see. It was a remarkable seaside wilderness that was well worth its 6+ Km bumpy entrance road.

There is sadly no camping at Keji Seaside, so we opted for an evening drive to the town of Liverpool where we could spend a restful night at the Hank Snow Free RV Park and visit a few historic sights in the morning…